Capsicum frutescens Fruit Extract—the chili pepper behind that unmistakable warming tingle—is a high-energy botanical used to add a gentle heat and “awake-skin” feel to modern formulas. Standardised to capsaicinoids (e.g., capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin) and naturally coloured by carotenoids (orange-red), it’s favoured in products that aim to deliver a warming sensorial, a revived, rosy look, and a touch of invigorating slip (cosmetic effects only). Used at carefully controlled, very low levels, it can transform routine textures—from lip gels to body balms—into experiences that feel active and immediate.
What it does
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Warming sensorial: Triggers a measured, temporary heat on skin that many describe as enlivening; perfect for massage products and pre-activity body gels.
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“Revived” appearance: The warming sensation can give skin a fresher, rosy look and a smoother feel—especially in body and lip applications.
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Lip plump look: In glosses and balms, tiny amounts can create a visible “plumped” appearance via a tingling warm effect (purely cosmetic).
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Comfort blend component: When balanced with soothing co-actives, the overall finish can feel conditioned rather than harsh.
Skin suitability
Best for normal to robust skin on body/lips. Not ideal for very sensitive, reactive, or compromised skin. Avoid broken skin, mucous membranes, and the eye area. Always patch test, start low, and educate users to expect a warm/tingly sensation.
Formulation guidance
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Formats & solubility: Common as oil-soluble oleoresins/CO₂ extracts (lipophilic, intensely coloured) and propanediol/glycerin tinctures (for water phase). Encapsulated forms help moderate the initial “sting.”
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Typical use levels (guide—follow your COA):
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Oil-soluble: ~0.005–0.05% in balms, oils, emulsions.
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Aqueous/active complexes: ~0.02–0.2%, depending on standardisation.
Potency varies wildly; bench test progressively (e.g., 0.005%, 0.01%, 0.02%).
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Processing: Add in cool-down (<40–45 °C). Avoid high shear late in process to limit aerosolising. Clean equipment thoroughly—oleoresins can stain and linger.
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pH & systems: Broadly compatible; most body/lip formats sit pH 5–7. Preserve water-rich systems with a robust broad-spectrum system.
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Stability: Protect from light/oxygen; use UV-protective/opaque packs. Expect orange-red tint that can colour pale bases.
Sensory tuning & safety tips
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Pair with film formers and emollients (squalane, jojoba, hemi-squalane) to smooth onset.
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Buffer with soothers like panthenol, bisabolol, allantoin, beta-glucan, or ectoin to keep the heat civilised.
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Add a small amount of menthyl lactate or vanillyl butyl ether if you want a complex warm-cool profile (trial carefully).
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Provide clear user directions: apply sparingly, wash hands after use, stop if excessive burning occurs.
Product formats you’ll see
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Lip plumping glosses/balms: Quick tingle, glassy shine, subtly fuller look.
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Pre-activity/warming body gels & massage balms: Energetic sensorial for legs, back and shoulders.
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Targeted body creams: “Revive & warm” positioning for cold weather or post-commute comfort.
Labelling & claims inspiration
“Warming sensorial,” “Invigorating feel,” “Revives the look of skin,” “Cosmetic lip-plumping effect,” “Adds glow to massage.” Typically vegan and biodegradable when responsibly sourced; confirm capsaicinoid level, solvent system, allergens, and GMO status per supplier documentation.
Properties
Slimming, Anti-cellulite, Increase blood circulation
INCI Name
Capsicum frutescens Fruit Extract
