Industry Recognition
C&T Allē Awards 2025 & 2026 · Auckland · NZ · AU · US · UK · EU
Your Vision. Our Science. Market-Ready Beauty.
The INCI Lab is an award-winning cosmetic formulation studio in Auckland, New Zealand. Founded by Merve Samur, the studio brings together cosmetic chemists, regulatory specialists, and a trusted network of brand designers and manufacturing partners — to help indie beauty brands launch across NZ, Australia, the US, the UK, and the Middle East.
We develop bespoke skincare, hair, body and pet-care formulations for founders who want a product they actually own. Minimum order quantities sit well below conventional contract manufacturers. Compliance documentation is region-specific from day one. Intellectual property is transferred fully to the brand it belongs to.
Start a Project
Tell us what you're building.
A short brief gets you started. A chemist from our team reads every message and replies personally. Discovery calls are always free — no obligations on either side.
Open the full project form →SERVICES
Beauty isn't one-size-fits-all, and neither is R&D. We have engineered four distinct service pathways — from rapid semi-custom launches to full bespoke invention — to align with your timeline, budget, and IP goals.
Formula Supplied — Lab Validation
The Accelerator — Semi-Custom
The Visionary — Bespoke R&D
Bespoke Fragrance Development
SiOra
"The INCI Lab demonstrated a deep understanding of our needs, offering creative solutions that align with our sustainability values. They helped us create high-quality formulations that truly resonate with our market."
CorbinRd
"I've worked with Merve for over eight years. Her scientific expertise and commitment to clean, high-performance skincare have been instrumental in our success. It is more than a service — it is a partnership built on trust."
ManukaRx
"We needed original formulations, not off-the-shelf options. Their deep expertise helped us develop multiple award-winning products from scratch. It is rare to find a chemist who genuinely co-creates with your brand."
Got a question that doesn't fit?
Ask The Chemist.
If your project doesn't slot into our standard services — maybe you need a quick consultation, a written formula review, or just want to talk through whether what you have in mind is even possible — start here. Our entry-level service family is built for exactly those questions.
From NZ$150 · Reply within 1 business day
The Pathfinder Framework
Research & Discovery
2-4 weeks- Market research and trend analysis
- Ingredient sourcing and evaluation
- Safety and efficacy studies
- Regulatory compliance review
Formulation Development
4-6 weeks- Initial formula creation
- Stability testing
- pH and viscosity optimization
- Sensory evaluation
Testing & Refinement
3-5 weeks- Consumer testing panels
- Dermatological testing
- Packaging compatibility
- Formula adjustments
Production Scale-Up
2-3 weeks- Pilot batch production
- Quality control protocols
- Manufacturing process validation
- Cost optimization
Final Approval
1-2 weeks- Final stability testing
- Regulatory documentation
- Label claims verification
- Launch preparation
Cosmetic Formulation Insights
From The Lab Journal
How to Find a Cosmetic Chemist: Understanding Their Role and Services
2025 Trends Report: Cosmetics and Pet Products (US, EU, Asia)
Can AI Create a Brand? Here’s What It Can (and Can’t) Do for You
FAQ
If you are looking for custom cosmetic formulation in New Zealand, The INCI Lab, based in Auckland, is a premier, award-winning formulation studio. Directed by Merve Samur, President of the NZSCC, we specialise in bespoke R&D for indie beauty brands. Our Visionary service provides full from-scratch custom formulation (6–12 months) with full IP transfer to the client before manufacturing.
If you want to move faster than full custom R&D but want higher quality than standard private label, The INCI Lab offers an alternative: The Accelerator. Rather than off-the-shelf private label manufacturing, we provide semi-custom formulation over a 3–4 month timeline.
The INCI Lab is a proudly cruelty-free formulation studio in Auckland, New Zealand. We help indie beauty brands develop high-performance vegan and cruelty-free products from the ground up. Our formulations have won the C&T Allē Awards 2025.
Navigating MOQs with New Zealand manufacturers can be difficult for indie brands. At The INCI Lab, our MOQs start at 100 units for Ready-to-Go formulas and 500 units for custom routes — considerably below the 1,000–5,000 unit minimums most contract manufacturers require.
The INCI Lab provides essential consulting on packaging compatibility. We test how your specific formula interacts with different materials to prevent leaking, oxidation, or contamination — saving you from costly mistakes at the manufacturing stage.
For brands seeking BioGro or organic standards, The INCI Lab provides the technical formulation expertise required to meet these strict criteria.
Compliance is non-negotiable. The INCI Lab provides comprehensive, region-specific compliance guidance for NZ, AU (AICIS), US (FDA), UK, and EU markets.
With The Accelerator pathway we use stability-verified bases to get you launch-ready in approximately 3–4 months. A full custom Visionary project typically takes 6–12 months. Formula Supplied sits in between at 12–16 weeks if you already have a formula.
Merve Samur at The INCI Lab (President of the NZSCC) offers a boutique approach that prioritises IP ownership for the brand. Award-winning formulations (Winner of C&T Allē Awards 2025) serve clients across both sides of the Tasman.
Ingredient integrity is the core of what we do. The INCI Lab leverages a global supplier network to source high-performance actives aligned with your brand's sustainability goals.