New — The Accelerator Discovery Kit. Pick 2 stock-formula samples, credited toward your project.
New — The Accelerator Discovery Kit
Not ready for a full project? Pick up to two stock-formula samples to trial first — $89, shipped worldwide, and credited toward your Accelerator project.
C&T Allē Awards 2026 — The INCI Lab named Double Winner. Second year!
C&T Allē Awards 2026 — Double Winner
The INCI Lab won two categories at the 2026 C&T Allē Awards in New York, both powered by our proprietary mānuka complex ECMT-154:
Winner — Finished Indie Formula: Acne/Compromised Skin Care The Mānuka Ritual Blemish Kit (Rejencia)
Winner — Prototype Product/Chassis: Hair/Scalp Treatments Scalp Oil by The INCI Lab Ltd.
The C&T Allē Awards are run by Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine and recognise breakthroughs in cosmetic R&D worldwide. The 2026 winners were announced on May 18, 2026 in New York City.
A high-energy botanical, Capsicum frutescens Fruit Extract adds a measured warming tingle that helps skin look revived and rosy—perfect for lip glosses, massage balms and pre-activity gels. Used at ultra-low levels, it delivers an instant “awake-skin” feel while emollients and soothers keep the finish comfortable.
Capsicum frutescens Fruit Extract—the chili pepper behind that unmistakable warming tingle—is a high-energy botanical used to add a gentle heat and “awake-skin” feel to modern formulas. Standardised to capsaicinoids (e.g., capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin) and naturally coloured by carotenoids (orange-red), it’s favoured in products that aim to deliver a warming sensorial, a revived, rosy look, and a touch of invigorating slip (cosmetic effects only). Used at carefully controlled, very low levels, it can transform routine textures—from lip gels to body balms—into experiences that feel active and immediate.
What it does
Warming sensorial: Triggers a measured, temporary heat on skin that many describe as enlivening; perfect for massage products and pre-activity body gels.
“Revived” appearance: The warming sensation can give skin a fresher, rosy look and a smoother feel—especially in body and lip applications.
Lip plump look: In glosses and balms, tiny amounts can create a visible “plumped” appearance via a tingling warm effect (purely cosmetic).
Comfort blend component: When balanced with soothing co-actives, the overall finish can feel conditioned rather than harsh.
Skin suitability
Best for normal to robust skin on body/lips. Not ideal for very sensitive, reactive, or compromised skin. Avoid broken skin, mucous membranes, and the eye area. Always patch test, start low, and educate users to expect a warm/tingly sensation.
Sensory tuning & safety tips
Pair with film formers and emollients (squalane, jojoba, hemi-squalane) to smooth onset.
Buffer with soothers like panthenol, bisabolol, allantoin, beta-glucan, or ectoin to keep the heat civilised.
Add a small amount of menthyl lactate or vanillyl butyl ether if you want a complex warm-cool profile (trial carefully).
Provide clear user directions: apply sparingly, wash hands after use, stop if excessive burning occurs.
Key Benefits of Capsicum Frutescens Extract in Skincare
Microcirculation Booster: The active compoundcapsaicin acts as a vasodilator, temporarily increasing blood flow to the applied area to flush out toxins and deliver nutrients.
Hair Growth Support: In scalp treatments, it stimulates hair follicles by increasing local circulation and releasing growth-promoting factors like IGF-I, helping to combat thinning.
Cellulite & Body Contouring: Its "warming" effect is frequently used in body creams to assist in fat metabolism (lipolysis) and smooth the appearance of "orange peel" skin.
Natural Pain Relief: When used in therapeutic topicals, it desensitizes sensory neurons (substance P), providing relief for sore muscles and joint discomfort.
Potent Antioxidant Protection: Beyond the heat, it is packed with Vitamins A, C, and E, which shield the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage.
It is a concentrated extract derived from hot chili peppers. In skincare and haircare, it is used primarily for its ability to stimulate blood flow and provide a warming sensation, thanks to its high concentration of capsaicinoids.
Does it actually make the skin feel hot?
Yes. Depending on the concentration, you may feel a mild to moderate warming sensation. This is a sign of increased microcirculation. High-quality formulas balance this "heat" so it remains invigorating rather than uncomfortable.
Can Capsicum extract help with hair loss?
Yes. By stimulating the scalp's blood vessels, it ensures hair follicles receive the oxygen and nutrients needed for growth. It also triggers the release of signaling molecules that can help prolong the hair's growth (anagen) phase.
Is it safe for sensitive skin?
It should be used with caution. Because it is a circulatory stimulant, it can cause temporary redness. If you have rosacea or extremely reactive skin, it is best to avoid high concentrations or perform a strict patch test first.
How does it work on cellulite?
Capsaicin is believed to influence fat cell metabolism. By boosting circulation in areas prone to cellulite, it helps the body process trapped fluids and lipids more efficiently, leading to temporary skin tightening and smoothing.
Will it cause a permanent "burn"?
No. The "burning" sensation is a sensory reaction of the nerves, not a chemical burn. The redness typically fades within 30–60 minutes as the blood flow normalizes.
Can I use it on broken or irritated skin?
Never. Capsicum extract should only be applied to intact skin. Applying it to cuts, rashes, or freshly shaved skin will cause intense stinging and severe irritation.
Is it effective for muscle pain?
Yes. It is a well-known analgesic. It works by depleting "Substance P," the chemical that transmits pain signals to the brain. This makes it a popular ingredient in natural muscle rubs and arthritis creams.
Can I use it every day?
In a well-formulated product (like a scalp tonic or body lotion), daily use is fine. In fact, for hair growth or cellulite, consistency is key. However, if you notice persistent peeling or irritation, reduce your usage.
Does it help with skin brightening?
Indirectly, yes. By improving blood flow, it removes the "sallow" look of stagnant skin, providing an immediate healthy flush. Its high Vitamin C content also helps fade hyperpigmentation over long-term use.
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The INCI Lab is an award-winning cosmetic formulation studio in Auckland. We formulate for indie beauty brands across New Zealand and Australia — low MOQs, full regulatory support, and 100% IP ownership stays with you.
