Perilla Extract

Perilla frutescens — often simply called perilla — is an annual herb of the mint family (Lamiaceae), native to East Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Vietnam). Commonly known in English by names such as shiso, beefsteak plant, or Japanese basil, perilla features serrated leaves in green or purple varieties and aromatic stems.
In cosmetics and personal-care formulations, extracts derived from the leaves, seeds or occasionally stems of Perilla frutescens (listed under INCI such as Perilla frutescens Leaf Extract or Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract) are utilised for their multifaceted skin-benefits. For example, research shows that leaf extracts enhance UV-B–induced DNA damage repair in keratinocytes. 

What It Does

• Antioxidant Protection: Perilla extracts contain high-levels of phenolic compounds like rosmarinic acid, flavonoids (e.g., apigenin, luteolin) and unsaturated fatty acids. These afford free-radical scavenging and oxidative-stress mitigation. Anti-Inflammatory & Soothing: Studies report that perilla leaf extract suppressed inflammatory enzymes (e.g., NO, COX-2), reduced mast-cell infiltration and down-regulated pro-inflammatory cytokines in skin models. Barrier & Skin-Shield Support: The seed form (and oil thereof) is rich in omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid and linoleic acid; this supports barrier-lipid synthesis, improves hydration retention and refines texture. Tone / Clarifying / Calm-Complexion Support: Emerging evidence suggests that perilla may help calm redness, reduce sensitised skin responses, and support an even-tone appearance. UV / Environmental Stress Resilience: One study found that perilla leaf extract improved keratinocyte response to UVB exposure, implying benefit for photo-aged or stressed skin. 

Suitability & Target Skin Types

Perilla extract is highly versatile. It is especially beneficial for:

• Sensitive, red or reactive skin needing calming support

• Oily or combination skin where barrier and texture support is needed

• Environmental-stress exposed skin (pollution, UV) seeking antioxidant and resilience support

• Mature or dehydrated skin where antioxidant and barrier-repair support are advantageous
  Because of its gentle yet active nature, perilla extract fits well in everyday skincare as well as calming treatments. As always, patch-testing is recommended for highly sensitive skin.

Formulation Notes, Complementary Actives & Processing Tips

• INCI / Declaration: Typical names include Perilla frutescens Leaf Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract. Always refer to supplier for exact part/solvent used.

• Typical Usage Levels: Vary by standardisation and claim; many botanical extracts are used in ~0.5-3% range. Verify with technical data.

• Vehicle Compatibility: Suitable for aqueous serums, creams, emulsions, masks; seed-oil forms suit oil-serums or hybrid formats.

• Processing & Stability: Because the actives include phenolics and unsaturated fatty acids, formulators should protect against oxidation (use chelators/antioxidants, opaque containers, cool-down processing).

• Complementary Actives:

  • Hyaluronic acid / glycerin – for hydration synergy

  • Ceramides / squalane – to reinforce barrier-lipids

  • Niacinamide / licorice extract – for tone and texture support

  • Mild exfoliants (e.g., lactic acid) – to complement soothing/balance effect

• Sensory & Colour: Typical extract form may present a light to medium golden-amber hue (or slightly olive/bronze depending on leaf/seed part). Aroma is mild herbaceous or leafy, allowing formula scent design freedom.

Sourcing & Sustainability

Perilla is cultivation-friendly and widely grown in East Asia, which supports steady supply. Key sourcing considerations include: traceability (region, cultivar), organic or low-input growth, sustainable leaf/seed harvest (rather than destructive wild-harvest). Given the consumer demand for botanical and "plant-powered" ingredients, ensuring non-GMO, pesticide-free, fair-labor sourcing can enhance brand story.

Labelling & Claims

• Label declaration: e.g., Perilla frutescens Leaf Extract.

• Consumer-friendly name: “Perilla Extract (Perilla frutescens)”, “Purple/Green Perilla Botanical Extract”.

• Sample claims:

  • “Helps calm and soothe sensitive or irritated skin.”

  • “Rich botanical extract to support skin’s barrier and natural defence.”

  • “Antioxidant-rich perilla extract helps protect skin from environmental stress.”

  • “Supports smoother texture and balanced, healthy-looking skin.”

• Claim caution: Use cautious language like “helps reduce the appearance of”, “supports”, “visibly improves” unless full clinical data backing exists.

• Positioning: Good fit for “clean botanical”, “soothing calm-luxury”, “urban defence”, “plant-science” narratives.

Properties

Anti-inflammatory, Anti-allergic

INCI Name

Glycerin and Perilla fruitescens Seed Extract