Purslane is the quiet achiever of calming skincare. This hardy succulent packs a cocktail of antioxidants (vitamins A, C, E), omega-3s (ALA), minerals, flavonoids and soothing polysaccharides that help skin look less reactive, better hydrated and more resilient day to day. If your brief is “calm, comfort, defend”, Portulaca oleracea Extract is a smart, low-irritancy way to get there.
What it does
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Soothes visible redness and discomfort: Naturally occurring polysaccharides and flavonoids help quiet the look of irritation from wind, heat, actives or over-cleansing.
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Antioxidant defence: Vitamin C and E analogues plus phenolic compounds help neutralise free radicals, supporting a brighter, healthier-looking complexion over time.
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Barrier support & hydration: Humectant sugars and electrolytes boost water retention and reduce TEWL, so skin feels soft and comfortable.
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Balance & clarity: Gentle on blemish-prone skin; helps keep the appearance of post-blemish marks and blotchiness in check without the sting.
Who it’s for
Ideal for sensitive, reactive, redness-prone, barrier-impaired or post-active routines. Also great in “cica-style” products, after-sun care, and minimal routines for teens or first-time actives users. Suitable for all skin types, including oily and combination.
How to formulate with it
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Form & solubility: Commonly supplied as a water or glycerin-based extract (sometimes with propanediol). It’s water-soluble and easy to drop into most systems.
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Use level: Typically 0.5–3% in daily leave-ons; up to 5% in wash-offs or masks depending on supplier specs.
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Process: Add to the cool-down phase and avoid prolonged heating (keep ≤45–50 °C) to preserve actives.
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pH window: Works well around pH 4.5–7.0. Outside this, monitor for colour or viscosity drift.
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Compatibility: Plays nicely with niacinamide, panthenol, allantoin, hyaluronic acid, ectoin, beta-glucan, ceramides, zinc PCA, and vitamin C derivatives (SAP/AA2G). If pairing with strong AHA/BHA or very high retinoid systems, run a bench test for colour/stability.
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Stability helpers: Consider a chelating agent (e.g., sodium phytate) and appropriate preservation (per supplier) to maintain clarity in very pale bases.
Formats that sing
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Sensitive-skin serums & essences for daily calm.
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Barrier creams & gel-creams to cushion actives.
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After-sun gels and post-shave balms for quick comfort.
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Sheet masks and overnight masks targeting redness.
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Scalp tonics to soothe tight, dry scalp without heaviness.
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Body lotions for seasonal dryness and post-exercise flush.
Labelling, claims & story
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INCI: Portulaca oleracea Extract.
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Claims you can credibly support: “Soothing,” “Helps reduce the look of redness,” “Antioxidant,” “Hydration support,” “Barrier-friendly,” “Gentle for sensitive skin.”
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Positioning angles: Desert-succulent resilience, omega-3-rich botanical, city-calm skincare, “cica-adjacent” calm without the stickiness.
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Regulatory notes: Commonly available as vegan, cruelty-free, often with natural origin content per ISO 16128. Keep claims cosmetic (no therapeutic promises).
How to use (consumer)
Apply after cleansing—toner/essence/serum step—then lock in with moisturiser and broad-spectrum SPF by day. Consistent use helps skin appear calmer, dewier and more even.
Formulator checklist
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Confirm spec sheet (solvent, preservatives, exact dose and pH).
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Add at cool-down; protect from excess heat and light.
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Include chelators in pale bases; run compatibility checks with strong acids/retinoids.
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Conduct micro/stability testing across intended pack formats.
Bottom line: Purslane extract is a gentle, multi-tasking calmer that brings antioxidant protection, hydration and visible redness relief to modern, sensitive-first formulas—without complicating your INCI.
Properties
Anti-inflammatory, Moisturizing, Anti-allergic, Emollient
INCI Name
Portulaca oleracea Extract
