The Right Science at the Right Stage.
Many founders make the mistake of over-investing in R&D too early, or cutting corners on safety to save time.
At The INCI Lab, we don't just sell formulas; we map the trajectory of your business. Whether you are validating a concept or building a legacy brand, we have a calibrated path to get you there.
Compare our services
One ladder. Four ways in.
| Ask The Chemist | Formula Supplied | The Accelerator | The Visionary | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Investment | From NZ$150 | From NZ$1,750 | NZ$2,000–5,000 | NZ$4,000–10,000+ |
| Timeline | 30 min – 10 days | 12–16 weeks | 3–4 months | 6–12 months |
| Format | Consultation, Formula Review, or Bespoke Fragrance | Prototype batch + 12-week stability programme on your formula | Semi-custom development on a stability-verified base | Full bespoke R&D from scratch |
| IP ownership | You own your formula | You own your formula | Shared — you own the finished SKU profile | You own it — full IP transfer |
| Lab work in Auckland | Optional (only with Bespoke Fragrance) | Yes — prototype + 12-week stability | Yes — customisation + stability | Yes — full R&D + stability |
| Best for | Quick advice, formula validation, or original fragrance | Validating your existing formula before scaling | Launching a brand in 3–4 months without full R&D | Building a legacy brand on a unique formula you own |
| Explore | View service | View service | View service |
We Build the Village Around Your Brand.
A successful launch requires more than just a formula. It requires a supply chain.
At The INCI Lab, we open our black book to you. From high-end brand design agencies and global ingredient sourcing to sustainable packaging suppliers, we have vetted partners all around the world ready to bring your idea to life.
We don't just hand you a sample and walk away; we plug you into the network you need to scale.
The 5 Stages of the Pathfinder Framework
From Concept to Shelf: Our Product Development Process
The Pathfinder Journey
Discovery Call
A complimentary 15-minute session to discuss your vision, project scope, and brand needs.
Route Selection
Choosing your development speed — Formula Supplied (12–16 wks), The Accelerator (3–4 mo) or The Visionary (6–12 mo full R&D).
R&D & Stability
Science-led formulation and rigorous stability testing in our Auckland studio.
IP & Compliance
Technical documentation for global markets and a clear handover of your Formula IP.
Small-Scale Manufacturing
Boutique production runs to help your brand launch without the pressure of high factory MOQs.
FAQ
If you are looking for custom cosmetic formulation in New Zealand, The INCI Lab, based in Auckland, is a premier, award-winning formulation studio. Directed by Merve Samur, President of the New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NZSCC), we specialise in bespoke R&D for indie beauty brands. The Visionary service provides full from-scratch custom formulation (a 6–12 month process) with full IP transfer to the client before manufacturing begins.
If you want to move faster than full custom R&D but want higher quality than standard private label, The INCI Lab offers an alternative: The Accelerator. Rather than off-the-shelf private label manufacturing, we provide semi-custom formulation over a 3–4 month timeline.
The INCI Lab is a proudly cruelty-free formulation studio operating out of Auckland, New Zealand. We help indie beauty brands develop high-performance vegan and cruelty-free products from the ground up. Our formulations have won the C&T Allē Awards 2025.
Navigating MOQs with New Zealand manufacturers can be difficult for indie brands. At The INCI Lab, our boutique studio is designed specifically for indie founders. We handle R&D, troubleshooting, and compliance through our Pathfinder framework, then help you transition to production smoothly with our manufacturing partner network.
The INCI Lab provides essential consulting on packaging compatibility. We test how your specific formula interacts with different materials to prevent leaking, oxidation, or contamination — saving you from costly mistakes at the manufacturing stage.
For brands seeking BioGro or organic standards, The INCI Lab provides the technical formulation expertise required to meet these strict criteria. We formulate using compliant ingredients to ensure your project is ready for organic certification.
Compliance is non-negotiable. The INCI Lab provides comprehensive, region-specific compliance guidance for NZ, AU (AICIS), US (FDA), UK, and EU markets. We ensure your product is retail-ready before manufacturing begins.
With The Accelerator pathway we use stability-verified bases to get you launch-ready in approximately 3–4 months. A full custom Visionary project typically takes 6–12 months. Formula Supplied (12–16 weeks) sits in between if you already have a formula.
Merve Samur at The INCI Lab (President of the NZSCC) offers a boutique approach that prioritises IP ownership for the brand. Award-winning formulations (Winner of C&T Allē Awards 2025) serve clients across both sides of the Tasman.
Ingredient integrity is the core of what we do. At The INCI Lab, we leverage a global network of suppliers to source innovative, high-performance actives that align with your brand's sustainability and performance goals.
Entry-level service family
Not ready for a full development contract?
Start with Ask The Chemist — our entry-level service family: a 30-minute Consultation (NZ$150), a written Formula Review (NZ$650), or original Bespoke Fragrance Development (NZ$650). The fastest, lowest-friction way to get expert cosmetic chemistry input on your project.
Explore Ask The Chemist